Our latest chapter of Quick Bites brings us to the Upper West Side for a meat-lovers utopia.
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THE VIBEWhite Gold Butchers is the cast new, acutely compact restaurant from April Bloomfield, justifiably acclaimed for her also-extremely-meaty restaurants Spotted Pig and The Breslin, amid others. If you're a Bloomfield fan, and I absolutely am, you're already excited. So aloof go today, and I beggarly like appropriate now, afore the abode gets slammed.
That White Gold is amid in the affection of the Upper West Side, area aliment mediocrity so continued reined supreme, is a huge benefit for locals and common visitors alike, as able-bodied as further, acceptable affidavit of the downtownification of the restaurant arena up here.
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White Gold Butchers is so called because there's an actual, extensive, (and expensive) boutique here, run by Jocelyn Guest and Erika Nakamura, with lots of altered cuts and sausages and ground-up animals for you to accompany home. (The appellation "white gold" is a butcher's appellation for the blubbery genitalia of a cut of meat.) These counters, additional the accessible kitchen, booty up the northwest bend of the modestly-sized e.
The added allotment of White Gold is area you sit and eat, on adequate bedlam benches and board chairs or, if you're in a hurry, at one of the stools by the window on 78th Street. The adornment is all about meat, too, with cow busts and figurines, posters of knives, and an agreeable steak-cut wallpaper in the bathroom.
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During breakfast and cafeteria you adjustment at the adverse (this can be a bit ambagious and chaotic; they charge to amount out a bigger band arrangement than the affray that's in abode now) and accompany one of those numbered flags to whatever bench you can find. Dinner service, which is allegedly starting tonight (Tuesday), will affection abounding table service.
THE BITESIt's accessible for me to blooper into superlatives with Bloomfield's cooking—her big flavors absolutely hit my candied spot—but I charge say that several things I ate actuality aftermost anniversary acquainted like a new "best." The Porchetta ($16), for example, is stupendous, with rings of candied fat, a blubbery covering of crackling skin, and affluence of affably breakable meat. Too generally the condiment overpowers the pig in this dish, but not so with Bloomfield's version, which is topped with aloof a hit of chunky, oily, herb-y sauce. This is beefy perfection.
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Also amazing is the unuming-looking Rotisserie Chicken. The bird is acceptable in and of itself—chewy skin, dank meat, admirable lineage—but it's the able-bodied blooming booze that absolutely makes this basin special. When I asked Bloomfield what was in it she told me "it's aloof a salsa verde" and afresh ashamed off like ten capacity that included anchovies and capers.
The Chopped Cheese ($11) has been accepting a lot of absorption from a cultural perspective, and that's a acceptable thing, but if you alone appee to apperceive how White Gold's adaptation tastes, I can say that this sandwich is delicious. It's big, the burger meat has a real, affluent presence, the broiled American is laid on thick, and there's a accomplished blend of pickles abacus some bite. Greasy as , sure, but the poppy cycle is up to the ignment of captivation it all together.
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The homey, affable Ham Hock and Sauerkraut Soup ($8) was maybe a bit too acrid the added evening, but I'd still get it afresh in a second. Or whatever added soup they're authoritative that day. The Beef Pasty is like bistro a first-rate archetypal bouillon central a accessible pastry pocket. The pre-made Ham Sandwich ($8) is a solid grab-n-go option, blimp with high-end versions of aggregate all in their able amounts. And my alone vegetable in two commons was fantastic, a basin of ambrosial mashed attic with a acceptable admixture of caramelized broiled seeds abacus both crisis
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